Giant & Rocky Peak Ridge
Adirondack Hike: June 10th, 2016
Our Route: A Longer Trek
While most people hike Giant and Rocky Peak Ridge as a loop from Chapel Pond, we had read that the hike from Rocky Peak Ridge out via the East Trail to New Russia is "probably the best hike in all of the Adirondacks" (ADK High Peaks Region Guide and several websites). So, despite the obstacle of arranging a shuttle, we decided to take the longer route (11 miles as a shuttle hike, rather than 8 miles as a loop).
Luckily, the lovely lady who ran our hotel (Amy at the ADK Trail Inn) kindly offered to help us out with our 'car logistics.' We both drove in separate cars to our end point (the New Russia parking lot on Route 9N) so that we could parked our car there. Then we hopped into her vehicle and she dropped us off at our start point (the Chapel Pond trailhead) so that we could begin our trek up Giant. There was no turning back now - our car was officially parked 11 miles (18 km) away!
While most people hike Giant and Rocky Peak Ridge as a loop from Chapel Pond, we had read that the hike from Rocky Peak Ridge out via the East Trail to New Russia is "probably the best hike in all of the Adirondacks" (ADK High Peaks Region Guide and several websites). So, despite the obstacle of arranging a shuttle, we decided to take the longer route (11 miles as a shuttle hike, rather than 8 miles as a loop).
Luckily, the lovely lady who ran our hotel (Amy at the ADK Trail Inn) kindly offered to help us out with our 'car logistics.' We both drove in separate cars to our end point (the New Russia parking lot on Route 9N) so that we could parked our car there. Then we hopped into her vehicle and she dropped us off at our start point (the Chapel Pond trailhead) so that we could begin our trek up Giant. There was no turning back now - our car was officially parked 11 miles (18 km) away!
A Late Start
Niels and I are great at a lot of things, but getting out early to the trailhead is not one of them (on the other hand, we are awesome at finishing late). We arrived at the Chapel Pond trail head at 9:30am, and began the 3 mile (5km) trek up Giant via the Ridge Trail. The way up was steep, with the path alternating between switchbacks and rock scrambling. We took our sweet time, especially at some of the rock ledges where you could see some amazing views! |
Chapel Pond and the Washbowl
Very quickly on this hike we were rewarded with gorgeous views. After only 0.7 miles, we hit a ledge directly overlooking Chapel Pond, and then very shortly after, we arrived at the Washbowl (a beautiful lake nestled into the mountain). People skate up here in the winter! #CrazyCanadians
Very quickly on this hike we were rewarded with gorgeous views. After only 0.7 miles, we hit a ledge directly overlooking Chapel Pond, and then very shortly after, we arrived at the Washbowl (a beautiful lake nestled into the mountain). People skate up here in the winter! #CrazyCanadians
Giant's Nubble
After the Washbowl, you soon hit a junction (only 0.3 miles from the Washbowl) where you can choose to hike Giant's Nubble (a smaller mountain) or continue up to Giant itself. We took a quick walk towards the Nubble just to get these amazing views from this closer ledge (it's worth the detour just to the lookout!)
After the Washbowl, you soon hit a junction (only 0.3 miles from the Washbowl) where you can choose to hike Giant's Nubble (a smaller mountain) or continue up to Giant itself. We took a quick walk towards the Nubble just to get these amazing views from this closer ledge (it's worth the detour just to the lookout!)
Remnants of a Fire
After the slight detour, we came back to the junction and continued up the Ridge Trail to Giant. The path was steep, and if you look for it, you can see where old conifers become newer poplars and birches. This line marks the farthest extent of the great fire of 1913, the last great fire of the Adirondacks. It burned off much of the trees on Giant, Rocky Peak Ridge and the area around Chapel Pond and the Washbowl. Below is a first hand account of the fire:
We walked on till we came to the pond, and I shall never forget the scene we saw there. The pond lies between the road and the ridge, which is so steep that it is not covered entirely with trees. But every tree, on that high, rocky bank of the pond, was ablaze, and every blaze was reflected in the dark water below. The roar, which we had been able to hear at the distance of a mile and a half, was terrifying when heard near to. We stood and gasped. What else could we do? Tree after tree toppled down the slope, and the burning branches were shattered into thousands of pieces, and bounced down the rocks, shedding sparks as they went. "You should have been here a minute ago,” someone said to us, “when a whole slice of the cliff broke off, and slid into the lake covered with burning trees!" - Frances Putman, Adirondack Almanac
Apparently, this fire put the town of Keene in very real danger. As terrifying and devastating as this fire must have been, it actually created the open views that make this trail so attractive, and it gave Giant many of its distinctive slides.
For another 2 miles, the trail climbs up steeply, but offers many ledges where great views can be enjoyed. This is a fantastic hike where you get to great views pretty quickly.
After the slight detour, we came back to the junction and continued up the Ridge Trail to Giant. The path was steep, and if you look for it, you can see where old conifers become newer poplars and birches. This line marks the farthest extent of the great fire of 1913, the last great fire of the Adirondacks. It burned off much of the trees on Giant, Rocky Peak Ridge and the area around Chapel Pond and the Washbowl. Below is a first hand account of the fire:
We walked on till we came to the pond, and I shall never forget the scene we saw there. The pond lies between the road and the ridge, which is so steep that it is not covered entirely with trees. But every tree, on that high, rocky bank of the pond, was ablaze, and every blaze was reflected in the dark water below. The roar, which we had been able to hear at the distance of a mile and a half, was terrifying when heard near to. We stood and gasped. What else could we do? Tree after tree toppled down the slope, and the burning branches were shattered into thousands of pieces, and bounced down the rocks, shedding sparks as they went. "You should have been here a minute ago,” someone said to us, “when a whole slice of the cliff broke off, and slid into the lake covered with burning trees!" - Frances Putman, Adirondack Almanac
Apparently, this fire put the town of Keene in very real danger. As terrifying and devastating as this fire must have been, it actually created the open views that make this trail so attractive, and it gave Giant many of its distinctive slides.
For another 2 miles, the trail climbs up steeply, but offers many ledges where great views can be enjoyed. This is a fantastic hike where you get to great views pretty quickly.
Summiting Giant Mountain
Everytrail.com labels Giant as "difficult," and it's probably due to the steepness of the trails and the intense scrambling you have to do. I'm glad we chose a relatively cool, but sunny and dry, day to do this hike. I'm also glad that we decided to do this hike from Chapel Pond to New Russia, so that we weren't having to descend these rocky trails at the end of our journey when we were overtired... and it was dark... but more on that later.
Everytrail.com labels Giant as "difficult," and it's probably due to the steepness of the trails and the intense scrambling you have to do. I'm glad we chose a relatively cool, but sunny and dry, day to do this hike. I'm also glad that we decided to do this hike from Chapel Pond to New Russia, so that we weren't having to descend these rocky trails at the end of our journey when we were overtired... and it was dark... but more on that later.
After 4 hours, we summited at 1:20pm! Niels and I must be very slow hikers, because by all accounts that is not great time. Or maybe we just like taking pictures...
Below is my attempt at a "panoramic" which really doesn't do it justice. This is the best view of the ADK peaks I've seen so far. Apparently, you can see 39 out of the 46 high peaks from the top of Giant.
Next up: Rocky Peak Ridge
From Giant, it is 1.2 miles (2km) to the summit of Rocky Peak Ridge. Again, this is one of the better marked trails in the Adirondacks. There are signposts, trail markers and yellow rock markings everywhere!
From Giant, it is 1.2 miles (2km) to the summit of Rocky Peak Ridge. Again, this is one of the better marked trails in the Adirondacks. There are signposts, trail markers and yellow rock markings everywhere!
The way down from Giant is STEEP, wet, and not pleasant to descend. Niels wore his gloves, which was smart as I cut my hands on some of the trees. Dear Santa: I would like light, breathable, hiking gloves.
After 1 hour 30 minutes, we summited Rocky Peak Ridge at 3:10pm! Whoohoo! Two high peaks in one day :-)
One of the best parts of Rocky Peak Ridge is the immediate view of Giant. It was inspiring to look back and see what we had just climbed!
Descending via the East Trail to New Russia
By this time, it was 3:30pm and we were realizing that we were not making good time. The trail from Rocky Peak Ridge to our car was another 6.8 miles (11 km), and we didn't want to be hiking in the dark! Most people do a loop now, and return via the col to Giant, and then back down to Chapel Pond. We definitely wanted to hike the East Trail down to get the spectacular views, and experience a much less traveled part of the Adirondacks - even though it was longer. At the top of RPR, we met a group of 4 hikers who had just climbed up the East trail. They looked exhausted. Each of them adamantly insisted that the climb along the East trail was much harder, steeper and longer than the guide books had let on. We proceeded down the East Trail, not having much choice as our car was down there, convinced in all our gusto that they must be wrong... or slow ... or disillusioned. Unfortunately, these were all adjectives to later describe us.
By this time, it was 3:30pm and we were realizing that we were not making good time. The trail from Rocky Peak Ridge to our car was another 6.8 miles (11 km), and we didn't want to be hiking in the dark! Most people do a loop now, and return via the col to Giant, and then back down to Chapel Pond. We definitely wanted to hike the East Trail down to get the spectacular views, and experience a much less traveled part of the Adirondacks - even though it was longer. At the top of RPR, we met a group of 4 hikers who had just climbed up the East trail. They looked exhausted. Each of them adamantly insisted that the climb along the East trail was much harder, steeper and longer than the guide books had let on. We proceeded down the East Trail, not having much choice as our car was down there, convinced in all our gusto that they must be wrong... or slow ... or disillusioned. Unfortunately, these were all adjectives to later describe us.
So what the guide books describe as "hiking the ridge" actually means that you have to summit and descend two extra mountains... not including the ones after that they actually tell you about. Yes, that's right: everyone notes that after Rocky Peak Ridge you hike the ridge, summit Bald Peak, Mason Mountain and Blueberry Cobbles and then you are done. Some websites even describe it as a "gentle climb." Ha! Consider yourself warned: "hiking the ridge" involves climbing up Rocky Peak at 4060 feet (not to be confused with Rocky Peak Ridge). Note that this mountain is too close to RPR to actually count as a separate high peak, but you still have to hike it - so in my books it counts!!! Then you have to ascend and descend another unnamed peak (over 3000 feet), Bald Peak (3060 feet), Mason Mountain (2330 feet) and Blueberry Cobbles (a smaller peak covered in blueberry bushes). This descent was quite difficult due to the steep declines from each mountain and just very long. While the views were beautiful, they were clouded by our worries that we wouldn't be getting down to our car anytime soon. What began as a stunning hike down from RPR, ended as a "get me out of here soon" descent!
Even though the descent was long, we always manage to have some fun...
Niels and I had talked about rewarding ourselves with a lovely dinner in Lake Placid after our hike. Chicken Parmesan? Grilled Salmon and sweet potato fries? Chicken Caesar salad with a glass of wine? Nope. Dry crackers, raisins and water on the summit of an unnamed peak.
We did take the route to Blueberry Cobbles to check it out, and it did feel like a haven of sorts. I wish that we'd had more time to sit and enjoy the tranquility, or that we had saved this hike for blueberry season. That being said, we both agreed that this would be a nice area to visit with our boys (hiking up 'backwards' of course, and Blueberry Cobbles being our first and only stop!).
As you can tell by our photos below, the sun was quickly setting and we were simply exhausted. We were running out of water and energy. Also, my knee was beginning to give out from all the ups and downs - we had literally hiked up and down seven mountains that day. We rejoiced as we saw the trailhead... 11 miles/18 kilometers and 12 hours after our (late) start! We crawled into bed that night more tired than we had ever been after a hike, but also with that certain satisfaction that only hikers can appreciate. We had done it - two more ADK peaks under our belt. Maybe I'll have Chicken Parmesan for breakfast :-)
Total distance (Giant and RPR via Ridge & East Trail): 11 miles (10.7 miles plus a 0.3 mile Giant's Nubble detour)
Total time: 12 hours
Total time: 12 hours
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